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A family affair

[Sat 31 October 2009]

A family affair

There are only three advantages to have in the wine industry – to be better, cheaper or different, according to Ross Brown, the head of Australian producer Brown Brothers. And, in its own way, the label is ticking all three of those boxes.

Research has shown that in high brand recognition and recall, the still-family-owned Brown Brothers is second only to Penfolds, and continues its 120-year-old policy of innovation, quality and affordability.

Visiting the immaculately presented vineyard complex, with its manicured gardens, restaurant, wine education school, cellar door and original large winemaking barn from 1857, is an uplifting experience.

There’s a genuine family-friendly feel to the whole complex and many of the staff have been with the family firm for years.

Located in the sleepy town of Milawa, a two-and-a-half hour drive north of Melbourne, Brown Brothers boasts an innovative “kindergarten” winery where new experimental varietals, using different yeasts, are trialled on a small scale.

“If t doesn’t work it doesn’t matter and we move on to something else,” says Brown.

The repertoire of wines is extensive and all extremely well priced – moscato, crouchen Riesling, dry Muscat, zibibbo, Dolcetto and syrah, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, barbera, petit verdot, along with standard issue cabernet sauvignon, merlot, shiraz, chardonnay, viognier, chenin blanc, pinot Grigio and sauvignon blanc.

A high-end label, “Patricia” launched in 2000 and named after Brown’s mother, had an auspicious beginning.

“Mum, we’re introducing a new top-shelf, bell-ringing label named after you,” Brown told his mother.

“Hmmmph,” replied Patricia, “It’d better be bloody good then.”

It is.